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Amadablam Expedition (6,812)
Amadablam Expedition (6,812)

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Ama Dablam is known as one of the most impressive mountains in the world, not for it's altitude, but for it's beauty, aesthetics and the pure exposure encountered high on it's flanks. Most parties attempt the SW ridge, cli
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Climbing permit to scale the Nepal Himalayas is issued in all seasons by the Mountaineering Section of the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation. Certain official documents are required to seek permission for climbing peaks. Around 121 peaks do not require liaison officer for expedition. Fees or royalties depend upon the altitude of the peak starting at US $ 1,000 for peaks below 6,501 meters and rising by US $ 500 for every 500 meters.

    1. The royalty for the mountaineering expedition team not exceeding seven in number from the route other than the general route (Southeast route) shall be fifty thousand U.S. dollar.
    2. The royalty for the mountaineering expedition from general route (Southeast route) for the mountaineering expedition team shall be as follows,-
    Member of the mountaineering expedition team
    Royalty (U. S. Dollars)
    One Member
    25,000
    Two Member
    40,000
    Three Member
    48,000
    Four Member
    56,000
    Five Member
    60,000
    Six Member
    66,000
    Seven Member
    70,000
    Note:
    If there is any change in the royalty amount before receiving the briefing from the Ministry even after one has already paid the royalty under this Regulation, the mountaineering expedition team shall pay the changed amount of the royalty.
Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu International Airport and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu. 

Day 02: Preparation day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla which takes approximately 30 minutes and trek to Phakding. Stay overnight at lodge in Phakding. Early in the morning you will be driven from hotel to Kathmandu airport, after 30 minutes spectacular flight you will land to Lukla airport (2800m.).You begin your trek to Phakding (2652m.) and you walk for about 2 and half to 3 hrs. While trekking, you head up the Dudh Koshi Valley on a well-marked trail to Phakding (2652m.) 

Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.) which takes about 5 to 5 and half hours. Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar. This day you trek and cross the river on high suspension bridges. Beyond Monjo(2800m.) is the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park which was set-up in order to protect and preserve this fragile mountain environment. You then ascend quite steeply to Namche and along the way, if the weather is clear, catch a first glimpse of Mt Everest in the distance. You can also enjoy the view of Mt. Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, Konde-Ri, Tawache peak. You can also visit some of the village monasteries on the way of trekking to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.). Namche is the main trading village in the Khumbu region and holds a busy Saturday market. There is set a meeting place for the Hindu traders from the lowlands and the Tibetan yak caravans that have reached there by crossing the glaciated Nangpa La.

Day 05: Rest at Namche Bazar for acclimatization and excursion around the places. Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar. Namche is tucked away between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the Khumbu and has an abundance of lodges, tea shops and souvenir shops as well as a magnificent outlook. It is an ideal place to spend a rest day for acclimatization to the high altitude before heading off towards Tyangboche. For the acclimatization you walk upto Khunde Hospital which was set-up by Sir Edmund Hillary, or a one hour walk up to the Syangboche (3800m.) where Everest View Hotel is situated above Namche for the outstanding view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. There are also good views from the National Park Centre and Museum just above the town. 

Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850 m.) and it takes almost 5 hours. Stay overnight at lodge in Tyangboche. From Namche, the trail contours around the side of the valley, high above the Dudh Kosi. Now you have a glimpse of first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu including Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, the trail descends steeply to a bridge over the river Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tenga (3250m.).The village has an excellent place for lunch and you can take a short rest before making the steep climb to Tyangboche. Although exhausting due to the zigzag path, the trek has numerous attractions like rhododendron bushes, beautiful birds chirping and superb mountain scenery making your trek exciting. Tyangboche is famous for its legendary monastery, the largest in the Khumbu region.

Day 07: Trek from Tyanboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp 

Day 08: Climbing period for Ama Dablam. Stay overnight at camp.

Base camp (4600 m): Situated on a large grassy meadow with a wonderful views.

To yak camp (5400 m): We use yaks to carry most of our equipment for this section, which saves us three to fours hours of heavy work. There is a rough track over very rocky terrain, which the yaks and we use.
 

To camp I (5800 m): Your first real camp is only one and half hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. You sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail.
 

Camp I to Camp II (6000 m): Now you are really climbing. This section of the route is usually rock climbing only, depending on the season. The granite is high quality and the moves fun, challenging and exposed but "do-able". You follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you are very thankful of the fixed ropes in place. Whilst it is generally easier not to pull on the ropes all the time if you are finding the going getting a bit too hard you can just rest on the fixed rope. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.
 

Camp II: Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform this camp site is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here it would probably land in base camp!
 

Camp II to Camp III (6300m): Now for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route. We follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three.
 

Camp III: A cold and exposed position is the start of your summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is however the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit. Summit day: The initial route is to the right of the huge "dablam" (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope, which is often iced. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6856 m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world's six highest peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000m and lesser peaks filling the gaps. 

Day 9: Trek from Ama Dablam Base camp to Namche. Stay overnight at lodge. 

Day 10: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Phakding (2652m.) and it takes about four hours. Stay overnight at lodge. The trails descend steeply for early one and half hours. After that, the path has small ups and down to Phakding through Monjo.

Day 11: Trek from Phakding to Lukla (2886m) and it takes about three hours. Stay overnight at lodge. Your final day's trekking follows the Dudh Kosi back down to Lukla. 

Day 12: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 13Rest day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu. 

Day 14: Deprture from kathmandu.

National Park entry permit, Trekking permit, all surface transportation to and fro, a guide and required number of porter(s), cook, kitchen helper, sherpas, all meals three times a day (breakfast, lunch, dinner, tea, coffee, fruit, juice, etc.), necessary camping equipments such as tents, kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, mattresses, down sleeping bags, down jackets, cooking utensils, fuel etc. camping charges, rescue help, insurance and equipment for the Nepali staffs.
Personal expenses, Insurance, Tips, Emergency evacuation by Helicopter, Alternative transportation in case of heavy rain, landslide, strike, road blockade etc.

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